Comfort. Spontaneity. Naturalness.M
Milan Fashion Week saw a succession of different styles, from the most conservative to the most insane and unconventional ones. A bunch of emerging designers stole the show and amazed buyers and international press, leaving the “classic brands” in the shadow. After all, they are the future…
Always faithful to the sporty-chic mix, Alessandro Dell’Acqua proposes a kind of “modern Mod”: strong, confident, carefree, he combines studded boots and highly-tailored trousers nonchalantly. A lot of materials, from satin to duvet, military canvas and prince of Wales. Refined, delicate, yet unforgettable as usual. Just N°21.
Palm Angels is the brand-new (just two years old) brand by Francesco Ragazzi. It is based in Milan, but all the inspiration comes from America and skateboard tracks. This season, all foreign buyers have gone crazy about Ragazzi’s fresh, creative and not truly “Milanese” style, which moved to the background even the historic fashion giants. Ok, we have to admit this sloppy, gloomy style is nothing new, but thanks to an impeccable styling this collection still turns out to be the most innovative one. A breath of fresh air updated the catwalks in conservative Milan.
Speaking of “outstanding” brands, it is impossible to overlook Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo’s Sunnei, which particularly impressed the audience. Their minimal, basic shapes and style wouldn’t make you think of an Italian brand… oversized volumes, comfortable overalls and classic raincoats are the base wardrobe of the Sunnei man of 2017. Conceptual, for sure, but if you like the style, it will be hard not to fall in love!
Well, Prada is Prada. Despite all the competitors, nothing will destroy this great brand as long as Mrs. Miuccia is in control. She wanted to present a “simple, no -frills man” for the coming winter. Indeed, according to Prada, the new generations need to break away from opulence and wealth, in order to of explore a refined elegance which doesn’t need any exhibitionism. Leather jackets, woollen pants and corduroy fabrics recalled the past, while wooden and shell pendants evoked the simplicity of nature. – Dressing up to protest – does it sound new?
Under the direction of Massimo Giorgetti, MSGM has now chose sporty style as their calling card. Warm, comfortable overalls, jumpers and sweaters with perkins collars are mixed with shearling, camel and faux fur coats. The shoes, co-designed with Diadora, are the ultimate in comfort. Scarves tied under caps and tennis sweatbands were “borrowed” from the closet of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth of England: indeed, part of the inspiration for the collection came from the sovereign of the United Kingdom. Unusual, but still fashionable.
Dulcis in “Fendi” is a technologic, almost-cyber man. Maxi logos, lettering and colorful details are the key to the collection by Silvia Venturini Fendi. In addition to the fabulous mink-inlaid bomber jackets and coats, it was very interesting to see the use of alternative, technical fabrics as opposed to natural materials such as fur. The plus that will make you fall in love? The colorful shearling slippers.
Photo courtesy of: Vogue.com
Author: Alessandro Roccia